Closer to the 21st Century

Hello everyone, the internet systems in Tashkent are very very slow so I will try to update from where I left off in Ferghana.

Bazaars: we have made a point of visiting bazaars and markets in almost every city and have enjoyed seeing the wide varieties of fruits, vegetables, spices, meats etc. The Ferghana valley is a wide valley that seems to go forever. From Penjikent to Khujand, Tajikistan and then into Uzbekistan and Ferghana City, we could see that the crops were being harvested and that the bounty would be great. We have munched on pink, purple and yellow Pomegranants. Each sweet and delicate flavors. Reminded me of the harvests in Iran. The meat sections of the bazaars are quite clean and well organized by animal. Every part of the animal is used and you can buy feet, heads, livers, kidneys, tongues; whole hind quarters hang like human bums but complete with the tail to ensure animal distinction. Taking a photo, I narrowly missed tripping backwards over a black cow's head, complete with horns. None of the animal or vegetables are cryo-packed and if you are squimish, shopping would be a big problem.

Etiquette: we had such a good time in the Khujand Market. I wanted to take a photo of women selling cotton oil and a very busty young woman threw her arm over my shoulder and insisted that we be photgraphed together. I commented on her ample busom and she patted my butt. The whole row of women, including me, erupted in laughter. Soon a young man came along and kissed my hand. After that, we had more photos and outrageous laughter. If the Ferghana valley is known as being a hot bed of tension and potential religious strife, we didn't see anything, but good, hard-working people and "girls who just want to have fun". Everytime that people greet us, the men quickly put their right hand over their heart before shaking hands and the women, openly smile and shake hands. Of course, everyone wants to know where I come from and whether or not Stefan is my husband, or just a friend. Many women who have been able to speak English tell me that they can't believe that we have been married for almost 30 years. Then they launch into stories about how they love but often hate their husbands. In the end, we agree that it's the same story all over the world and we end by laughing and laughing. (Stefan, just grins and bears it all).

Fashion: for the most part in Tajikistan the women wear a style of bright and often sparkly, Shalwar Kameze. In the cities, the girls dress in the latest European fashion. Here in Tashkent, the capital with about 2.1 million people, the street scene is pretty European. We have passed Escada, Mexx, Mango and all of the other fashion shops. The girs totter along on very high spike heels wearing tight, short skirs. The guys prefer tight pants and pointy shoes. The school boys always wear a white shirt, dark trousers, and a tie. The girls mostly wear black skirts and white blouses. During harvest time, most of the universities and colleges in the rural cities are closed and everyone is expected to help with the cotton harvest. I have to say that I feel like a real frump in my Mountain Co-Op clothes and my Gortex shoes. I sorely miss my high heels and tight skirts. However, the sensible clothes and shoes have been really practical and again, will be very useful when we have to pull our bags across the next 1Km, no-man's-land between Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. The best way to cross borders here must be by air.

Countryside to Markets: in Tajikistan, the only equipment that we could see was old and decrepid; even the hand plough being pulled behind a donkey was wooden. In Uzbekistan the equipement is modern and the fields are full of men and women bent over and harvesting tomatoes, cucumbers, ground nuts, walnuts, potatoes, carrots, squash, melons, cotton etc. Acorns, walnuts, almonds and dozens of different kinds of apricots are being harvested. All of the fruits and vegetables are arranged artfully and piled beautifully in the markets. Each of the markets are a little different, but everyone seems to be in a jovial mood and offer us all kinds of samples to taste. The Chorsu M arket here in Tashkent has the atmosphere of the Calgary Stampede. The country side is gradully developing infrastructure, but a constant source of electricity and water is variable.  I must say that over the last 5 days our hotels in Penjikent, Khujand and now here in Tashkent have given us a chance to wash a few things and to have really hot showers. We are both feeling as though we have finally recovered from the demanding conditions of travel in Tajikistan.

Tashkent: We drove from Ferghana City to Kokand and visited the Khan's Palace, a 19th century palace and then up and over the Kamchik Pass 2267M. As we drove through this section of the Pamirs we could see snow capped Tien Shen mountains in the background. We paused at a roadside market in the mountains and tasted many different kinds of apples and honey. What a luxery to see so much produce. Lovely asphalt highways out of Tajikistan and into Uzbekistan we began to feel as though we are sliding back in the 21st Century. Sure there aren't any white lines on the road and Maurat, our driver pulled "G's" all along the steeply curving road, but we could see that the farm equipment in the fields were of this century and that there was actually road maintence equipment in action. On the Tajik side, a shovel, pick, and adze are the only standard issue; so many more resources on this side of the border. Each of the cities that we have visited are blessed with towering trees, lots of green spack and parks. While the rural villages look medieval with the brown clay brick, the cities are quite lovely and we are enjoying Tashkent. The Metro has been easy to use and we have had a good impression of this busy city.

Best regards to all. Corine and Stefan